Formed and Prefabricated Niches

Two construction routes are in common use and they suit different situations.
A formed niche is built on site from board and framing within the wall, then waterproofed and tiled as part of the wall. It can be any size the wall allows, and it can be tiled to match the surrounding wall exactly, which is what most designers want.
A prefabricated niche is a molded unit built into the wall as a single piece and then tiled around. Because the box itself is one waterproof piece with no internal corners to seal, it removes the most failure-prone part of the detail. It comes in fixed sizes and its interior may be a different surface from the wall, which some buyers want and others do not.
For repeat rooms in a hotel or apartment project, the prefabricated route is usually the better one: consistent, faster, and it removes a workmanship variable that would otherwise be repeated across every bathroom.
- Formed on site: any size, tiled to match the wall exactly
- Prefabricated: one waterproof piece, no internal corners to seal
- Prefabricated comes in fixed sizes
- For repeat rooms, prefabricated removes a workmanship variable
- Solid surface niches can be made to size with no visible joints
Sizing and Positioning

Depth is set by the wall. In a standard stud wall the void gives a usable niche around 90 to 100 mm deep, which takes most bottles. Anything deeper requires a thickened wall, a service void, or a chase into masonry, all of which are construction decisions rather than choices.
Height above the floor should suit the person using it, not the tile course. Somewhere around chest height puts bottles within easy reach without bending; a second lower niche or shelf is useful for a foot when shaving legs. In an accessible bathroom the position should be confirmed against the applicable standard, and reachable from a seated position.
Width is a free choice within the stud bay. A long horizontal niche spanning between studs reads as a deliberate architectural line and holds far more than a small square one. A tall vertical niche fits within a single bay and suits narrow walls.
The one instruction that saves an argument later: coordinate the niche with the tile setting-out. A niche whose edges do not align with a grout line looks like an accident, and it is free to prevent on a drawing.
- Depth around 90 to 100 mm in a standard stud wall
- Position at reachable height, not at a convenient tile course
- Long horizontal niches hold more and read better
- Confirm reach requirements for accessible bathrooms
- Align the niche edges with the tile setting-out
Waterproofing and Drainage

A niche is a hole in a waterproofed wall, which makes it a potential weak point unless it is treated as part of the waterproofing rather than an interruption to it.
The membrane must run continuously into the recess, across its base, up its back and returning out to the wall face. Internal corners are reinforced. Stopping the membrane at the opening and relying on tile and grout inside the niche is the failure mode, and it is not visible once tiled.
The base needs a slight fall outward so water drains rather than pooling. A perfectly level niche base holds a shallow pool of water permanently, which discolours grout and eventually finds the weakest point.
And avoid placing a niche on an external wall where the recess reduces insulation, or directly opposite the shower head where it takes the full spray.
- Membrane runs continuously into and out of the recess
- Reinforce every internal corner
- Fall the base slightly outward so water drains
- Do not stop the waterproofing at the opening
- Avoid external walls and the direct spray line





