When to Measure

The correct moment is after tiling is complete and after the shower tray or the floor build-up is in place. Not before.
Tile and adhesive commonly take 12 to 20 mm off each wall, and that is not a constant across a room. An enclosure measured from the substrate will be too wide, and there is nothing to be done about it once the glass is toughened.
This creates a scheduling conflict on every project, because the enclosure has a lead time and the tiling is late in the program. The answer is to plan for it rather than to measure early: order the enclosure against a survey taken at the right moment and accept the lead time, or choose a framed configuration whose adjustment absorbs the uncertainty.
- Measure after tiling and after the tray is set
- Never measure from bare substrate for frameless work
- Build the enclosure lead time into the program deliberately
- Where the schedule cannot allow it, choose an adjustable configuration
- Record the date and stage at which the survey was taken
Width, at Three Heights

Measure the opening width close to the tray, at roughly mid height, and near the top of the intended glass. Record all three.
For a framed enclosure the smallest measurement governs, and the profile absorbs the difference. For a frameless enclosure the smallest also governs, but the difference will be visible as a tapering gap, so if the spread between the three is more than a few millimeters, that is information the supplier needs before production.
For a corner enclosure, do this on both openings, and also measure the diagonal to establish whether the corner is actually square. A corner that is 5 mm out over 900 mm will show clearly in a frameless installation.
- Three widths: low, middle, high; the smallest governs
- Record all three, not just the smallest
- For corners, measure both openings and the diagonal
- Report the spread to the supplier before production
- Note which wall each measurement was taken from
Plumb, Square and What They Cost

A wall that leans is the most common enclosure problem and the one most often discovered at installation.
Check both side walls with a long level and record how much they deviate over the height of the glass. A framed enclosure will hide 10 to 20 mm through its adjustable wall profile. A frameless one has a wall channel with a few millimeters of adjustment at most, beyond which the deviation appears as a wedge-shaped gap at the top or bottom of the panel.
If the deviation is large and a frameless result is wanted, the options are to correct the wall, to accept a visible taper, or to specify a configuration with a wall profile. All three are legitimate; what is not legitimate is discovering the choice on installation day.
- Check both side walls with a long level over the full glass height
- Record the deviation as a number, not as an impression
- Framed profiles absorb 10 to 20 mm; frameless absorbs a few
- Decide in advance whether to correct the wall or change configuration
- For repeat rooms, survey a sample rather than assuming they match
The Floor, the Fall and the Door

Water control in a frameless enclosure depends on the floor as much as on the glass. Before setting out, confirm which way the floor or tray falls and where the drain sits.
A floor that falls toward the door opening will push water out no matter how well the enclosure is made, and it will be reported as a leaking enclosure. In a wet room with a linear drain, check that the fall is toward the drain across the whole showering area, not just near it.
Also note the shower head position relative to the door. A head aimed at the opening is a design error that no seal will correct, and it is easy to fix on a drawing and impossible to fix afterward.
- Confirm the fall direction and the drain position before setting out
- A floor falling toward the opening will leak regardless of the enclosure
- Check the shower head is not aimed at the door
- For walk-in screens, confirm the wet area is long enough
- Record the tray upstand height if one is fitted





