Drawer Runners

The runner specification decides how much of a drawer you can actually use. A partial-extension runner stops with the back quarter of the drawer still inside the cabinet, and that quarter effectively does not exist. A full-extension runner brings the whole box out.
Undermount runners sit beneath the drawer box and are invisible, which looks better and usually includes soft close as standard. Side-mount runners are visible on the sides of the drawer and are cheaper. Both work; the difference is appearance and price.
Load rating is worth checking against reality. A drawer of bathroom items is heavier than people assume, and a runner rated for its empty weight will sag. Ask for the rating and compare it against a fully loaded drawer, not an average one.
| Type | Extension | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Side-mount, partial | About 75 percent | Cheapest; the back of the drawer is unusable |
| Side-mount, full | 100 percent | Visible runners, good value |
| Undermount, full | 100 percent | Concealed, usually soft close, better feel |
| Undermount with push-open | 100 percent | For handleless designs; check the mechanism quality |
Hinges

Concealed European-style hinges dominate cabinet work for good reason: they are adjustable in three directions after installation, which means a door that is slightly out can be corrected rather than rehung.
The specifications that matter are the opening angle, whether soft close is integrated or a separate damper, and the plating. Opening angle affects whether a door clears an adjacent wall or a drawer beside it. Soft close prevents years of slamming, which is the mechanism by which doors work loose.
In a bathroom, plating is the specification that decides how the hinge looks in year five. A nickel-plated steel hinge in a permanently humid room will show corrosion, and a corroded hinge is both unsightly and stiffer to operate. Ask what the corrosion resistance specification is rather than accepting a finish description.
- Concealed hinges adjust in three directions after installation
- Check the opening angle against adjacent walls and drawers
- Integrated soft close is preferable to an add-on damper
- Plating and corrosion resistance are the bathroom-specific question
- Ask for a salt spray test figure where one is available
Handles and Pulls

Handles are the part of the cabinet a person touches every day, and the part most exposed to water, soap and cleaning products. They are also the easiest thing to change, which is worth remembering when a specification is under budget pressure.
Solid brass and stainless steel handle a bathroom well. Zinc alloy with a plated finish is common and varies enormously: good plating lasts, poor plating blisters and pits within a couple of years, and the two look identical when new.
Handleless designs, using a routed finger pull or a push-open mechanism, remove the problem entirely and are increasingly common in contemporary bathroom furniture. A routed pull in solid wood or solid surface has nothing to corrode at all, which is a genuine long-term advantage.
For project work, ask whether the handle range will still be available in five years. A discontinued handle across eighty bathrooms is a real problem.
- Solid brass and stainless steel perform well in a bathroom
- Plated zinc alloy varies widely; the plating specification matters
- Handleless routed pulls have nothing to corrode
- Handles are the easiest component to upgrade later
- For projects, confirm the range will remain available
Fixings for Wall-Hung Cabinets

This is the one hardware group where failure is not an inconvenience. A wall-hung vanity carries the cabinet, its contents, the countertop, the basin and the water in it, plus whoever leans on it.
The fixing method depends entirely on the wall. Solid masonry or concrete takes appropriate expansion or chemical anchors directly. Timber stud walls require noggins installed between the studs before the wall is closed, or a continuous backing plate spreading the load. Metal stud walls need a proper backing plate; toggle fixings into plasterboard alone are not adequate for a loaded vanity.
The critical point is timing. Backing must be installed before the wall is boarded and tiled, which means the decision to hang the vanity has to be made early in the construction program rather than during fit-out.
- Calculate the load with the basin full and someone leaning on it
- Masonry: appropriate expansion or chemical anchors
- Timber studs: noggins or a continuous backing plate, installed early
- Metal studs: a backing plate; plasterboard fixings alone are not adequate
- The decision must be made before the wall is closed





