Step 1: Measure the Wall Properly

Measure the available width at three heights: near the floor, at roughly counter height, and near the top of where the vanity will sit. In older buildings these three numbers regularly differ by 10 to 20 millimeters, and the smallest one is the one that governs.
Then check whether the floor is level across the width. A floor that falls 8 millimeters across a 1200 millimeter cabinet will show as a visible gap at one end of the plinth or a tilted countertop. For a floor-standing unit this is a levelling problem to solve at installation; for a wall-mounted unit it does not matter at all, which is one of the quiet advantages of hanging the cabinet.
- Record the narrowest of the three width measurements
- Check floor level across the full intended width
- Check the wall for bow, especially on stud walls
- Note the skirting: a floor-standing cabinet either scribes around it or stands off it
Step 2: Record the Plumbing Positions

This is the measurement that most often causes a defect report. Record the waste and both supply positions as two numbers each: horizontal distance from a named corner, and height from the finished floor. Photograph the wall with a tape measure in shot.
Those numbers decide the drawer layout. A drawer box is a solid volume, and a waste pipe passing through that volume means either a notched drawer, a shortened drawer, or a relocated pipe. On a project order this must be resolved on a drawing before production, not discovered on site.
- Waste center: horizontal from the corner, and height from finished floor
- Hot and cold supply: same two numbers each
- Note whether services come through the wall or up through the floor
- State whether the pipe positions can move, and at whose cost
If you are ordering more than a handful of units, send these positions with the enquiry. A supplier who can see them will size the drawer boxes around them, which turns a site problem into a factory decision.
Step 3: Protect the Clear Space

A vanity that fits the wall can still ruin the room. Before choosing a width, mark on the floor the space you intend to keep clear and check what is left.
Two clearances matter most. The clear floor in front should be at least 21 inches, and 30 inches is far more comfortable in daily use. And any drawer needs its own full depth clear in front of it, which is a bigger number than people expect on a deep cabinet.
- At least 21 inches clear in front; 30 inches is comfortable
- Full drawer depth clear in front of the cabinet
- Door swing arc marked on the floor, including any inward-opening bathroom door
- At least 4 inches from cabinet edge to a return wall, more where a door swings
- Mirror and light positions planned from the finished counter height
Step 4: Measure the Delivery Route

A 60-inch vanity arrives as a rigid crated unit. It has to get from the street to the bathroom, and the narrowest point of that journey is a real dimension that no one measures until it fails.
Check the doorways, the stair turn, the lift car, and any low ceiling on the landing. Compare against the carton dimensions rather than the product dimensions, because the packaging adds meaningful size. For upper-floor apartments and boutique hotels this is the constraint that most often forces a change of specification.
- Narrowest doorway and its diagonal opening
- Stair width and, critically, the turn at the half-landing
- Lift car internal dimensions and door opening
- Carton dimensions, not product dimensions
- Whether the top ships separately, which often solves the problem
Where the route is genuinely tight, a cabinet supplied with the countertop separate, or a run supplied as linked modules under one continuous top, will usually get in where a single assembled unit will not. Raise it at enquiry stage and it costs nothing.





